A Celebration of Surrealism, Craftsmanship and Colour
Last week I visited the Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum, and it exceeded every expectation. Even with a good knowledge of fashion history, nothing quite prepares you for seeing Elsa Schiaparelli’s extraordinary creations in person.
The exhibition successfully brings together two remarkable eras of the fashion house: the groundbreaking work of founder Elsa Schiaparelli from the 1920s and 1930s, alongside the spectacular contemporary collections created under Creative Director Daniel Roseberry. Rather than feeling like two separate exhibitions, the displays reveal an ongoing conversation across nearly a century of fashion innovation.
What immediately strikes you is Schiaparelli’s refusal to follow convention. While many designers sought elegance through restraint, Elsa embraced imagination, humour and theatricality. She collaborated with some of the greatest artists of the Surrealist movement, including Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau, creating garments that blurred the line between fashion and fine art. Seeing iconic pieces such as the Skeleton Dress and the Lobster Dress up close allows you to appreciate the extraordinary craftsmanship that photographs simply cannot capture.
The modern collections are equally breathtaking. Daniel Roseberry has managed something few creative directors achieve: respecting the heritage of the house while making it feel entirely contemporary. His sculptural silhouettes, exaggerated jewellery, gilded anatomical details and architectural tailoring continue Elsa’s spirit of fearless creativity without becoming a museum piece themselves.
A Masterclass in Colour
As a colour analyst, I found myself studying not only the designs but the remarkable use of colour throughout the exhibition.
One surprise for many visitors is the relative absence of the famous “Schiaparelli Pink.” Often called “Shocking Pink,” it became Elsa’s signature after the launch of her perfume Shocking in 1937. Although the colour is instantly associated with the brand, it actually represents only a small chapter in Schiaparelli’s wider creative story. Instead, the exhibition demonstrates an astonishing command of colour across the entire spectrum.
Rich black provides drama and contrast. Cream and ivory allow sculptural forms to take centre stage. Vivid scarlet commands attention, while deep emerald, sapphire blue, mustard yellow and regal purple appear throughout both historical and contemporary collections. Metallic gold is used almost as a colour in its own right, adding richness, symbolism and surreal impact rather than simple decoration.
The colour combinations themselves are equally fascinating. Unexpected pairings—hot pink with red, cobalt with gold, emerald with black—create tension and excitement, proving that successful colour is often about confidence rather than convention.
It was also a reminder that colour in fashion is never simply decorative. Throughout the exhibition, colour directs the eye, enhances the silhouette, creates emotion and reinforces the story each garment is telling. Whether bold or restrained, every choice feels intentional.
The Details Matter
One of the greatest pleasures of the exhibition is being able to examine details that are impossible to appreciate in photographs. The embroidery is astonishing. Beading catches the light from every angle. Feathers, velvet, silk, leather and metallic finishes create extraordinary texture. Many garments look almost impossible to construct, yet every seam and embellishment has been executed with exceptional precision.
The accessories deserve equal attention. Schiaparelli has always understood that jewellery should be part sculpture, part conversation starter. Oversized gold earrings, surreal buttons, sculptural handbags and elaborate embellishments transform otherwise elegant garments into unforgettable works of art.
More Than Fashion
What stayed with me most was the confidence that runs through every room. Schiaparelli has never been about following trends or pleasing everyone. The collections celebrate individuality, imagination and the courage to wear something that makes people stop and look.
For anyone interested in fashion history, couture, textiles, costume design or colour, this exhibition is a masterclass. Even visitors with little previous knowledge of Schiaparelli are likely to leave inspired by the sheer originality on display.
I took far too many photographs, not just of the spectacular gowns but also of the remarkable details, textures and colour combinations. They will undoubtedly provide inspiration for months to come, particularly when teaching colour harmony, contrast and the relationship between colour, texture and form.
The exhibition serves as a powerful reminder that great fashion is never simply about clothing. It is about storytelling, craftsmanship, artistic vision and, perhaps above all, the fearless use of colour to create emotion. If you have the opportunity to visit, allow plenty of time—you will find yourself wanting to look at every piece more than once.
Further Reading for Colour Specialists
The history of colour analysis
Colour Psychology for Colour Consultants
Understanding colour beyond fashion trends
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The information contained above is provided for information purposes only. The contents of this blog post “Schiaparelli at the V&A” are not intended to amount to advice and you should not rely on any of the contents of this article. Professional advice should be obtained before taking or refraining from taking any action as a result of the contents of this article. Helen Kendall-Tobias disclaims all liability and responsibility arising from any reliance placed on any of the contents of this article.
Last Updated on 19th June 2026 by Helen Tobias